Sgurr na Stri on the Isle of Skye

Date: 02-Oct-2011

Map: Landranger 32

Weather: Warm sunshine and blue skies.

 

A walk from Loch Coriusk landing steps, up Sgurr na Stri, down to Camasunary Bay and along the coast path to Elgol : 8 miles – as measured on memory map

This was one of those walks that gave everything to me – pure pleasure all the way. After seeing many pictures from the top of Sgurr na Stri, I’d made my mind up to go and see the same view, hopefully when it was clear.

After a mixed week of weather and a couple of good walks (one with Ian Stephenson of http://www.mountainfreedom.co.uk/home.htm ) we headed down to Elgol for the last couple of days. I’d been hoping for a sunset or two and finally got one on the Saturday night, which bode well for the Sunday trip. Incorporated into this walk was a boat ride from the jetty at Elgol on the Bella Jane  - http://www.bellajane.co.uk/ , chosen because it ran on a Sunday. I think the Misty Isle boat is run by the locals, but they must go to the Kirk as they don’t go anywhere on the Sunday. It took 45 mins across flat water to reach the landing steps at Loch Coriusk, and on our way we had views of a basking shark, plenty of seabirds and of course the seals at ‘seal rock’. The boats hadn’t sailed across the loch for about 3 weeks due to the weather, so we were lucky to catch this one.

Low cloud topped the summit of Sgurr na Stri, but looking around I was sure that it would be clear later on. Halfway across the loch I realised that I had forgotten my sandwich, but thankfully had a few snacks to keep me going. After a stroll around the boggy shores of Loch Coriusk you quickly realise that this is an amazing place, surrounded by the jagged Black Cuillens, a stunningly beautiful place to visit, peaceful to the extreme in the sunshine. The dome slabs of Gabbro are easy to walk over and very ‘grippy’ as the surface of the rock is quite rough – fall on this stuff and you would know about it. There is a climbers hut nestled below the steep slopes, facing south and catching the sun – you need to be a member of a climbing group to use this though.

After returning to the landing steps and waving goodbye to the Bella Jane, I was alone in utter silence, no wind, just sunshine, with the clouds lifting above most of the summits. A short walk around the shore along what must be the shortest river in the UK – 0.2 miles – brought me to the stepping stones across the River Scavaig. I’d wondered about staying dry as the rivers and burns have been running in spate over the previous week, but it was nice and dry. With the aid of two walking poles for balance it was an easy crossing to the other side, then a steady traverse around the shore, gradually gaining ascent up towards the Allt a’ Choire Riabhaich – a small river that flows down the gabbro slabs from the loch above. I passed by a couple of deer, which didn’t seem to be bothered about my presence and let me snap away merrily. My camera doesn’t have much of a zoom, so I didn’t get much of a close up of these. As I got higher up the slopes behind me the Inaccessible Pinnacle came into view, almost lost amongst the higher jagged peaks.

Before I got up to the loch I decided to cut away from the main path and head up to Sgurr na Stri to the south. There are traces of paths here and there, mainly made by the deer – I didn’t find a regularly used path. The ground was ok, a mixture of gabbro slabs and boggy, grassy tussocks. It was quite energy sapping at times, but I’m sure most would find it reasonably easy. As I got higher and higher the views began to open up and I found myself stopping and staring over to the Cuillens an awful lot of the time. I was puffing away and literally bumped into a Stag. I spent a little time snapping away, me staring at him, and him at me, before he bellowed a couple of times and toddled off down the hillside. I met him again later on, when he did the same thing, obviously getting ready for the rutting season.

Eventually after much more ascent I came out at the top to what must be the best view in Britain – it’s outstanding and the vista takes in the whole of the Black Cuillen Ridge and a bit more beside. I wished I could have done it justice with my shots, but the afternoon sun shining into the lens put an end to that. It would be best to get up here earlier in the day for the best chance of capturing it’s beauty – I’ve stitched a couple together. The drop below your feet is steep which allows you to capture the beach and lochs below, as well as the high peaks. I could have stayed for hours, but I had a long walk down and back along the coast, so didn’t spend as long as I’d hoped – a good reason to return again.

For the journey off the mountain I’d downloaded a GPX track from the Walk Highland site, and a little scramble took me onto the right path / deer track. This veered to the NW below some crags and was quite a distinct path, again boggy and steep in places. At a grid ref of NG49993 20175 I started to drop down the slope, about a 1000ft to the river  - Abhainn Camas Fhionnairigh – following the river bank to take me to another set of stepping stones. The river is quite shallow and is easy to cross, especially today on the dry rocks – again the walking sticks helped. After heavy rainfall it should still be ok to cross, but the water maybe a little higher up the leg

I was now down at Camasunary Bay, another peaceful spot with a beautifully situated bothy, that looks south out over a stony beach. I sat here and had a snack and a drink, conscious that time was ticking on. The ground behind the bothy looks ok, nice golden grasses swaying in the breeze, but like much of Skye it was very boggy. Two ladies had parked their trainers outside to dry and thought I was there to spend the night. They were busy tidying up and throwing away someone’s rotten fish. I knew that sunset was about 7:15 pm, the afternoon light was getting a nice evening glow to it, so I upped and got going again, a little unsure about the coastal route. I’d read a couple of walk reports, but no one had mentioned that it was very high above the beach, slippery and narrow - It’s about 4 miles to the road at Elgol. Thankfully Ian the guide had warned me a couple of days ago that I would have been better taking the track over the beallach at Am Nam and down to the road near Kilmarie. But I decided to give it a go as it had been dry all day and I wanted to stick to the coast and see the beach at Cladach a Glinne – this is the location where fossil turtles have been found, but I believe they have all been removed now. From the bothy the path took me across the bay towards another privately owned building, by passing this to the right and up to a rough bridge that spans the river. At this point I had to scratch around a little to find the route but there is a distinct path that takes you away from the bay and up to higher ground above the cliffs. A little boggy at first, but soon the path became thinner and about a mile from the bridge the path starts to be very close to the edge, actually overhanging the beach far below at one point. A slip here would be deadly, as the drop is around 150ft at its highest point, with not much to stop the fall. I’m surprised that this section of path is still open, as you have to duck and weave through overhanging branches at one stage – a little awkward if you have a big pack. But as I’m quite used to heights I felt ok, and just made sure I had my walking sticks ready to plunge into the ground in case of a slip. The beach down at Cladach a Glinne is much the same as at Elgol, with plenty of rocks and boulders to hinder a walk along the shore – although at low tide I’m sure it could be done, albeit slowly. On the slope down to the beach there is a newly buried thick pole and alongside a sturdy aluminium frame – I assume that there will be a warning sign going up here soon.

Beyond Cladach a Glinne the path generally is not so exposed, although it has a couple of dodgy points where a little rock scramble is needed to continue on. At this point I was thinking that it would be irresponsible to advise people to take this route, rather they should take to the road at Kilmarie and walk up to Elgol from there. For me now the views back to the Cuillens were as good as ever and the light was ever softer as the sun slowly set. Clouds were coming in to cover the higher summits and I was happy to have had a clear day. All that was left was 1 ½ miles to Elgol and the end of one of the better walks I’ve ever had – definitely way up there on my list of top walks, and one I shall repeat next year hopefully as I plan a long walk on Skye.

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the jetty at Elgol with the Cuillens in the distance - this isn't the Bella Jane

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this is when he started motoring

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anyone for a shag?

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the bad step on the coastal path - mid picture - up a bit then down a bit

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Sgurr na Stri above the landing stage and mountain hut - very tranquil now

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Loch Coriusk surrounded by high hills of the Cuillens

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looking back at Sgurr na Stri - note the boggy shoreline

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you can walk all the way around the shore, but it's pretty boggy

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a couple cross the stepping stones - these would be covered when in spate, but you'd be ok with walking poles as stabilisers

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the view from the landing stage, awaiting the Bell Jane

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the first set of stepping stones from the loch shore

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leads to the second set of stepping stones

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the views across Loch Coriusk when you gain height are superb

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ladies first - I met the stag later on. They didn't seem worried by my appearance

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a steady climb took me up and over the next crag to the small burn

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fairly boggy ground ahead

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The Innaccessible Pinnacle not looking so big from afar 

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my route up from the stepping stones

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grippy Gabbro slabs are easy to walk up

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there is a gradual path up to the ridge, but I cut up to the right here to save some time

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ever improving views back to the Cuillens

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hard to stop staring all the time

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Loch Coriusk down below - sublime views

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the northern hills start to come into view as Loch a Choire Riabhaich disappears. Marsco is on the right

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and then this boy appeared, posing below Bla Bheinn across the valley

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what a great beast, ready for the rut

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he stood still for a long time

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and then decided he'd had enough

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then it was up to the 'Best view in Britain?'  Looking down to the landing steps, and the stepping stones

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with all the Cuillens in view - absolutely fabulous

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there's a little beach you can walk around to from the boat landing at bottom left

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my way down was across the slope below me towards the big bluff at middle right

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looking down on Loch na Creitheach and Bla Bheinn above

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  Camasunary Bay is positively glowing in the late sunshine. You can see the path over to Kilmarie.

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I think he was waiting for me

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A last look back before dropping off Sgurr na Stri

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my path is in shadow but it dropped down below the big butress

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Camasunary Bay and beyond is the coastal route back to Elgol

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my route down was a rough path from the crag at middle top of picture

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the stepping stones across to Camasunary Bay - all the river was quite shallow

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and the second part of stepping stones

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the bothy at the bay - Elgol at the distant point

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a lovely location for an overnight camp

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the view from the bothy

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old farm equipment glowing in the late afternoon sunshine - Bla Bheinn up to the right

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getting higher up on the coastal path

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a dodgy bit of path - it's a long way down to the rocks below

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clouds now getting lower - I'd had the best part of the day

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down to the beach at Cladach a Glinne

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next stop is Elgol

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a great view back to Sgurr na Stri

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the sun setting over Soay

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looking down on the harbour at Elgol

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a panoramic of one of the best views in Britain - a fantastic walk

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