The Cumbria Way 2012
Day One: 27th February
Weather: Overcast, fine rain in the afternoon
Route: Ulverston to Coniston - 17.4 miles with 2063ft of ascent
All decked out in my Paramo and ready for the worst but
hoping for the best. I’m going try and blog as I make my way
north to Carlisle although I suspect getting a signal may
prove problematic, but after finishing the walk I only had
one night without a signal at Caldbeck. I travelled up the night before so I
could get a lie in as I would have had to travel at 06:30
and that would have made a very long day. I had a quick peek
around the town centre and in the centre of Ulverston
stands a big bronze of Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy, well
polished by many hugs. Not really much to see though and a
bit of guesswork to find the official start of the way.
I had a sharp reminder yesterday of how cold it still is, so
I packed my winter woollies expecting a chilly week. It
added a little weight to my bag but it’s well worth the
trouble for the extra comfort. In the town centre is a war
memorial and I took that as the start point, but there is an
official start a little further up the road in a nice
triangle of stainless steel rods, in a setting of a little
green. A grey morning for this
new journey and I hurried along the streets keen to be out
of town and away from the traffic. It didn’t take long to be
quickly out on a field path and into the many fields, muddy,
sloppy, pooey, but relaxing all the same. The ground
conditions varied depending on which livestock was in
residence – the cattle are the worse culprits, and it was a
wee bit tiring walking over slippery grass. Two walking
poles aided stability though and I didn't have to worry
about slipping over.
Unfortunately I knew my fate today before I started as the forecast predicted
rain at 13:00, but that was way out as it started to pee
down from 12:30. Not real rain but persistent drizzle, the
real wet stuff, and it was more a case of the cloudbase
getting lower and lower, when I reached Coniston Water it
was kissing the lake.
At the start of the walk is a big monument up on Hoad Hill,
a grand folly built by Sir Blithering Bonkers. It looks just
like a lighthouse but without the lights – it can be seen
for a long way into today’s route, but it disappears
eventually. Next time in Ulverston I will take the time to
walk up the hill for some good views all around.
The Cumbria Way is well marked apart from a few cantankerous
farms who seem to got out of their way to make life
difficult - blocked access and poor signage. A few spots were confusing as to re-routing of
the path around farmyards, which is sensible generally but
not when there are no signs. It was a good mix of fields, farm lanes, old roads and
eventually some open fell, and all of it for me, myself, I.
I didn’t meet a single person until I walked into Coniston,
a very peaceful day.
After many miles, just after Kiln Bank I got to walk out on
the open fells. Not very high fells and no views to any of
the big hills, but Lakeland fells with crags, bracken, sheep
and a bit of fresh flowering yellow gorse. The path took me
up to Beacon Tarn a very popular place judging by all the
paths up there. But by this time the weather had really
dropped down and I was a little moist on the outside but dry
on the inside, and my boots were toasty dry – a great advert
for Graingers spray on proofer.
Eventually the route drops down to the shores of Coniston
Water and follows the waters edge for the last few miles
into Coniston. Through Torver Common Woods passing a few
caravan sites with very prominent ‘keep out’ signs, and
Coniston Hall with its unusual round chimneys. Coniston
hove out of the mist and I was left with a short walk through the town to Dollys B&B – a mighty fine establishment, that served up a
lovely lasagne, followed by wine and dancing.
A quiet sort of day with plenty of birdlife flying around,
with the plaintive cry of the Curlew breaking the silence
now and again. Plenty of things to focus on as well when it
was raining – badger setts, mossy walls, looking for
glorious graptolites (bet Jonathan Ross can’t say that) -
didn't find any though.
Day one done and a long day tomorrow, with several pubs
along the way to tempt me in to sample their wares….it could
be a long day.
The official start of the Cumbria Way - note the cat burglar to the right
leaving the streets of Ulverston behind, Flan Hill over to the right. Squelchy fields along here
The Hoad Hill monument that overlooks Ulverston from a fine viewpoint
passing by Bortree Stile, looking back to Flan Hill
a little higher and I had a view back to Hoad Hill and Ulverston
the way is well marked for a lot of the route
the church near Netherhouses
St Johns Church
the horses were shrinking in so much rain
pretty gloomy now as I plodded along farm lanes
across the main road at Gawthwaite looking back to Lowick Common
I quite like these farm tracks - this one leading to High Stennerley
at least Lowick Green had some sunshine
there was an old tarmac road under the grass. In the distance are the Blawith Fells left and Furness Fells right
a useful marker stone
I think this fellow has had a trim
passing Kiln Bank on the way up to open fells at Subberthwaite Bank
it was fairly moist as I walked over Subberthwaite Bank
and wound my way towards Tottlebank
looking back to Subberthwaite Bank
the walls are used to being wet
out on open fells that has been well grazed
looking back to the path today from near Beacon Tarn
Beacon Tarn
still covered in mist
walking down below the Blawith Fells
down off the fells and on towards Coniston Water down to the right
near Tottle Bank
Down Mere Beck below Anne Riggs
and finally down to the shores of Coniston Water
the cloud followed me down as well
easy walking through the trees at this time of year
plenty of landing stages, but no ferries today
Coniston Hall - a really interesting building when you look closely
and then a flat walk across the fields to Coniston, a B&B and a fine meal